For the Stage - DIY LAMP POST

DIY LAMP POST

Yes, this is a DIY!! That fact was a surprise to many who saw it up close. They thought it had been purchased. I'll admit, I loved the compliments. I too was excited at how well it turned out.

Made mostly of cardboard making it light weight.
Comes apart for easy storage.

WHY I DID THIS:

Our church was doing a "Night On Broadway" event and I was asked to dress the stage with little time and a small budget. I took on the challenge. One of the things I needed for my design were a couple of lamp posts. Since I couldn't afford to rent any, as I had previously done for a wedding reception, and I couldn't find anyone who had one or two I could borrow I ended up making them.

WHAT I DID:
First of all, I got my initial idea from my sister who is an amazing artist and a creative genius! (Check out some of her art at http://www.mcfarlanearts.blogspot.com/) She had made some pretty amazing lamp posts for a project she was working on. (see picture below) I didn't need mine to be as fancy as hers so I scaled it back and went for it with the materials I thought would work. Most items I had on hand; left over from other projects I had done, or had attempted to do. (Not everything is a working success. "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work."  -Thomas Edison :D)

My sister's lamp posts in use.

Materials:
Cardboard
Fabric bolt tube (empty)
Black Duct Tape
Copier paper or Melamine
Almost empty black duct tape roll
Low Temp hot glue sticks and gun
1"x4"x 4" piece of wood
PVC Plug
PVC coupler
A few screws
Flat black spray paint
Tape Measure
Straight edge
Pencil
Push lamp from the dollar store (you can see it sitting on the table next to the lamp post in the photo at the top of the post - the small white circle thing)

THE BASICS:
This is how I made it work for me with the materials I had.

The Lamp Box:

Figure 1

I designed this lamp box to open on one side for easy insertion of a push lamp. In my sister's design, the top came off for the same purpose.








BOX SIDES: Need 4 total. Paper or melamine for windows. (I used copier paper because it was what I had on hand). Cut them to the same dimensions as the box sides then trim (or just cut .25" smaller all the way around to begin with - see Figure 3.1).

Figure 2

Figure 3

MEASUREMENTS:
Top & Bottom: 7.5"
Width: 9:5" (gently fold along this line)
Height: 16"
Borders: 1"

Three of these remain all one piece.  For the fourth, separate the top section from the bottom section as shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3.1
Finished Lamp Box
showing swinging door.
(I used a couple extra
pieces of duct tape
for securing the door
when closed.)

BASE & TOP: (Cut 2)

Figure 4

          Base & Top: 7.5" square
          (Figure 4)















After I had all the pieces cut I taped it all together with the black duct tape. I thought about just taping the seams and spray painting the rest, but decided to put tape over the whole thing in an attempt to make it more durable.  I've been pleased with how well the pieces have held up with all the use they've seen.

I hot glued the mostly used tape roll in the center of the bottom of the lamp box. The tape roll would be the collar that would fit over the empty fabric bolt or "post". Since the tape roll was too large to fit snugly over the empty bolt I cut strips of cardboard, rolled them up to give them a curl, then coiled them around the inside of the tape roll filling the gap. (see Figures 5 & 6) Once I got the fit I wanted, I hot glued the coiled cardboard strips into place.

Figure 5

Figure 6

The Base & Post:

I would have preferred to use a 3" PVC pipe for the post of my lamp, but budget did not permit.  I happened to have an empty fabric bolt, so that is what I used. However, the bolt was not long enough to give me the height I wanted so I had to improvise.

I cut TWO CARDBOARD CIRCLES - 12" diameter and set one aside. TIP: See my "Perfect Circles" post at  http://jillscreativeumbrella.blogspot.com/2013/12/cardboard-creations-perfect-circles.html) On the other one, I found exact center of the circle and drew a circle the diameter of the bolt tube in the exact center.

TIP for finding exact center

TIP: Trace the end of the bolt onto a piece of cardboard, then cut it out. Find exact center on the small circle and match it up with exact center on the 12" circle. Trace around the small cardboard circle.







I then cut the center circle 1/2" from the edge of the drawn line for the small circle. (see Figure 7 - drawn line is the solid line - cut line is dotted line). NOTE: It is always easier to cut more off than it is to add cardboard back when you've cut too much off. I always err on the side of having to trim again. I then cut small wedges out around the edge of the small circle creating small pieces of cardboard that I could gently fold down to fit the post into place. (see Figures 7.1 & 7.2)

Figure 7

Figure 7.1

Figure 7.2

After I made certain the small circle in the center was going to work with the bolt tube, I taped the 12" circle to one end of my base piece (see below), wrapping the base piece around the circle.

THE BASE PIECE measured approximately 38.5" wide x 31" high - (lines in the cardboard running 31" inches, top to bottom). Initially, I just taped the two together to get them to stay in place. Once it was taped in place, I used hot glue from the inside around the entire bottom edge of the 12" circle for stability. After the glue had cooled and the circle was firmly in place, I went around the top outside edge with black duct tape to give the tape the finished look as seen in Figure 7.2.

Preparation of the post and inside circle:

I prepared my second 12" circle by determining the exact center of the circle and the exact center of a 1"x4" piece of wood. I then attached the plug, (see figure 8) which had previously had a hole drilled in it from another project, in the exact center of the piece of wood with a screw. I used a fiber washer to make sure the head of the screw wouldn't slide through the hole in the plug. After attaching the plug, I hot glued the piece of wood in the exact center of my circle. (See figures 9 and 9.1) 

Figure 8
PVC Coupler and drilled Plug

Figure 9

Figure 9.1

Next I prepared the post by cutting strips of cardboard and wrapping them around the outside of the PVC Coupler until I had the right fit, then hot glued the cardboard and coupler into place in one end of the bolt tube MAKING SURE THE SMOOTH END OF THE COUPLER WAS CLOSEST TO THE END OF THE TUBE in preparation to slide over the plug. (See figure 10)

Figure 10
Bottom end of bolt tube
coupler and cardboard
glued inside - smooth end
of coupler toward edge
of tube - slips over plug
inside the base

Figure 11
Looking at base from the bottom
-Second 12" circle glued in place

From there, I determined how tall I wanted my finished lamp post to be and after preparing the second 12" circle, hot glued it, wood and plug side up, inside the base at the proper height. (See figures 11 & 11.1)

I had to glue in small sections and hold the cardboard in place until it was cool/set enough that I could let go and have it stay.

I then taped the base piece along the seam to secure it in place around the circles. I made sure all tape was securely in place I assembled the post and base together then spray painted the two pieces.

Figure 11.1
View of base from the top.
You can see the second circle
with the wood and plug.

After it was dry I added the lamp box to the top. Done! Ready to insert the push lamp for lighting affect.

Finished
&
Unfinished

-Jill

For the Stage - New York Skyline

CARDBOARD CREATIONS: NEW YORK SKYLINE SILHOUETTE

WHY I DID THIS:

Our church was doing a "Night On Broadway" event and I was asked to dress the stage with little time and a small budget. I took on the challenge. One of the elements I chose was a silhouette of the New York skyline.

Materials and tools used:

Boat load of cardboard*

Black duct tape

Gray latex interior house paint

Flat Black spray paint

Pencil

Ruler

Straight edge

Tape Measure

Utility knife - sharp

Permanent marker

Wooden yard stick or other thin piece of wood
*FREE CARDBOARD HINT: Check with furniture and lighting stores.  Often times, they are willing to let you have what you want since they typically just dispose of it in one way or another anyway.  Be aware that it is typical for cardboard to be available on a first come, first served basis.  So, if they are willing, find out when their shipments come in and go get your cardboard!

PREPARING THE CARDBOARD:

I wasn't blogging yet when I made this, so photos were not taken during the process. Hopefully, the ideas will still come across with the photos I do have.

For my design, I needed to cover just under 24 feet across the stage with my cardboard skyline. Using black duct tape and several unfolded boxes, I assembled three 8' x 5'8" (approximately) sections of cardboard. Usually, the "lines" in the cardboard run flap to flap giving the box more strength when assembled. I took advantage of this and made sure the lines were running top to bottom to give my structure more support. You can see the positioning of the flaps in Fig. 1 and the lines Fig. 1A where the paint isn't full coverage on the bottom flaps.

Fig. 1

Fig. 1A

I managed to get a bunch of boxes the same size which made it easy to interweave the flaps down the center of my 8 foot pieces. Note the offset. They are not lined up exactly. This is to give stability and keep the piece from folding in half from top to bottom. Once in place where I wanted them I taped them in place with black duct tape. (See Fig. 2 - You can kind of make out the interwoven flaps.) Finally, I covered the gaps between the flaps along the top edge of all three 8 foot pieces with black duct tape to make them into a solid rectangle making it easier to draw on and remain stable while cutting. (shown in Fig. 3 drawing - Those pieces of tape ended up being mostly cut off in the end but were very helpful in the process.) Since my plan was to fold the flaps along the bottom toward the back to help with support and I wasn't sure if I would need to bend the skyline vertically after I folded the flaps back, I didn't bother to cover the gaps between the bottom flaps. I was now ready to draw my skyline onto the cardboard.

Fig. 2
Note the offset - fold lines
not lined up exactly so
the piece would be less
likely to fold in half.

Fig. 3

DRAWING AND CUTTING THE SKYLINE:

I found a picture online of the New York skyline that I wanted to use, printed it out, then transferred the outline of the skyline onto my large pieces of cardboard using a grid. The basics: draw a grid on the paper print out and draw a grid on the cardboard. Transfer what you see on the paper grid to the cardboard grid. (see GRID TRANSFER HOW-TO below for detailed instructions) I needed to add an extra piece of cardboard to the top of the 5'8" height to make that piece tall enough for the Empire State Building.

NOTE: I began the bottom of the image of the skyline at the fold above the flaps that ran along the bottom edge of my 8 foot long pieces of cardboard because of my plan to fold the flaps back to aid in stability. (see Fig. 1 above)

With a sharp utility knife, I followed the outline I had drawn and cut out the skyline.  Because I had a couple layers of cardboard in various places, I used black duct tape to cover the edges to make sure pieces would stay secure after cutting out the skyline.

GRID TRANSFER HOW-TO:

I determined how many feet I needed/wanted to cover with the skyline.  As I said, for my project it was 24 feet. Next I determined the scale I needed my grid to be. The paper with my selected skyline picture printed on it was 8.5" x 11". Because I was dealing with a silhouette, I could easily add another figurative inch to my picture to make my picture 12" long - easier to scale 12" to 24' than 11" to 24'.  So, I put a 1 inch grid (see detailed instructions below) on my picture and ended up with 11 squares wide by 8.5 squares tall.  Each square inch on my paper would be two square feet on my cardboard.

Then, in the same manner I had drawn the grid on my paper, (see detailed instructions below) I drew the 2 foot grid onto my cardboard using a pencil, tape measure and straight edge. Next, with a pencil and using what was in each square on my 1 inch paper grid as a guide, I drew my skyline picture onto the cardboard. The final step was to trace my cutting line with a permanent marker so I could easily see my cutting line against the grid lines as I cut with the utility knife.  NOTE: The paint will cover the pencil lines so no need to erase.  IN FACT, it is best if you do not erase any pencil lines as erasing can change the texture of the cardboard, creating blemishes that cannot be covered up by paint and may be noticeable in the reflection of stage lighting.

DETAILS ON HOW TO MAKE A GRID: 

Finished Grid

1. Using a pencil (shine of the lead shows up easier against the silhouette than pen or marker), starting at the bottom left corner of the picture, mark a dot every one inch along the bottom of the entire picture marking left to right. (see Fig. 1)

2. Starting at the top left corner, mark a dot every one inch along the top of the entire picture marking left to right. (see Fig. 2)  (NOTE: Always start measuring from the same side of the paper you measured for the opposite side of the paper so the markings will line up.)

3. Starting in the bottom left corner again, mark a dot every one inch up the left side of the picture marking from bottom to top. (see Fig. 3)

4. Starting in the bottom right corner, mark a dot every one inch up the right side of the picture marking from bottom to top. (see Fig. 4) (Again, measuring in the same direction across the page.)

5. Draw the grid lines by drawing lines between the corresponding dots from left to right and top to bottom. (see Fig. 5 and Fig. 6)

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

PAINTING THE SKYLINE:

Most of my painting I do in my driveway, weather permitting.  Weather not permitting, I end up in the garage.  However, being outside gives me more space, better ventilation and seems to make for faster drying times so, it is my preference.

Protecting the driveway from paint is important to me so I put some kind of protective covering between the piece I am painting and the driveway. Most of the time it is just scrap cardboard. It doesn't have to fit under the entire piece you are painting all at once, just under the edge where you are working since the scrap piece can be moved around as you work.

A WORD OF CAUTION: It does seem faster to roll the latex paint on, however, rolling paint onto cardboard can easily get the cardboard too wet and cause the surface to ripple and become deformed.

DECISIONS, DECISIONS
This is where you need to decide whether to go for a solid black silhouette or go for shading and highlights...or if you are like me, decide which method of coverage is most cost effective - money and time considered. If you're going for all black you can just use black latex paint, cover the whole thing - front and back, let it dry and you're done.

HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW

I decided to use highlight and shadow to add a feeling of depth and texture.  I painted the entire cutout of the skyline, both front and back, with dark gray paint using a large brush. The gray paint was a mixture of a few buckets of dark interior house paint I got really cheap at Miller Paint. Once I mixed them all together I just happened to end up with a medium gray which was perfect. Painting full coverage with the house paint allowed me to use less spray paint later.

Once the gray was dry, I went to work with the flat black spray paint.

PERSONAL PREFERENCE: I've tried the cheap-o cans of spray paint and always end up regretting it; the spray isn't as even, it seems to require more paint to get the coverage I'm after, but mostly because the smaller style nozzle bruises my fingertip by the time I've finished my project. I definitely prefer the spray cans with the wider, finger-size nozzle.

[CAUTION: Before you begin spraying... Move vehicles out of the driveway or cover them up to avoid spray mist drifting onto your car.]

Beginning with one eight foot section, I began spraying the vertical lines for the individual buildings and down the sides so no brown of the cardboard showed on any edges exposed or not taped. When that was done, I stepped back, took a look at building placement and decided where I wanted highlight and shadow. Working in vertical lines, I continued to spray, keeping the lines closer together in places of shadow, sometimes to the point of almost full coverage, and further apart in places of highlight, blending with shots of spray paint to give the desired effect. See the shading effect in Fig. 4 below and in Fig. 1 above.

Fig. 4
New York skyline showing gray and black shading

REINFORCING THE STRUCTURE:

Supports

Because the silhouette was made completely of cardboard it needed a little stability help to keep it standing. As mentioned above, I folded the flaps back along the bottom. In a few strategic locations across the back of the silhouette, I taped some pieces of cardboard and yard sticks at a very slight angle to support the pieces. (See my primitive drawing.) I needed my skyline to stand up fairly straight so I put the supports at a very slight angle then used weights on the flaps to keep the structure from falling over.
NOTE: If using cardboard, make sure the "lines" in the cardboard run the length of the strip like the purple lines do in the drawing. For stronger reinforcement, use two strips taped together with duct tape.

ASSEMBLING THE SKYLINE

For this stage set I needed my silhouette to stand higher than it would if it were on the floor of the stage. I used banquet tables (3 - 8 foot tables) covered with a gold shimmery fabric I had.  It made a beautiful water effect in the lighting. The gold fabric was not long enough to drape over the top and sides of the table, so I taped it to the top of the table with painter's tape...sticky enough to do the job but not so sticky it would destroy the gold on the fabric when I took it off.

Gold shimmery fabric

Gold fabric along 3 - 8 foot tables with skylight on top

Starting at one end, I placed the skyline on top of the taped fabric, just slightly overlapping the edges of the pieces in the middle so it would all fit. I used cylindrical touch lamps for back lighting behind the silhouette which doubled as weights to hold the structure in place.

Cylindrical Touch Lamp

BACK LIGHTING THE SKYLINE

As I mentioned above, I used cylindrical touch lamps for lighting behind the skyline. The touch lamps have low, medium, and high settings for brightness.  I used red, yellow and blue colored light bulbs to create the look of the sun setting on New York.

Light placement from left to right went as follows: Red at high, Yellow at high, Red at medium, Yellow at medium, Blue at high - the blue being under the moon.

This was great fun and I loved how it turned out!  Watch for a future post on my creative storage of this set piece.

-Jill

Cardboard Creations - Broadway Stage Design/New York Skyline

"DIY New York Skyline/Broadway Stage Design"

New York Skyline/Broadway Stage Design

WHY I DID THIS:

Our church was doing a "Night On Broadway" event and I was asked to dress the stage with little time and a small budget. I took on the challenge. 

WHAT I DID:

Circumstances, as they were, gave me less than two weeks to plan and carry out this project so I needed to keep it simple. I began by looking online for images of "Broadway", "New York", or "New York Theater". The plan I came up with involved a large Broadway marquee style sign with "lights" all the way around and the New York City Skyline. I knew these were going to require a LOT of cardboard. Fortunately, I knew a local place where I could get an abundance of cardboard for free!  FREE CARDBOARD HINT: Check with furniture and lighting stores.  Often times, they are willing to let you have what you want since they typically just dispose of it in one way or another anyway.  Be aware that it is typical for cardboard to be available on a first come, first served basis.  So, if they are willing, find out when their shipments come in and go get your cardboard!

I also thought about trying to include a Central Park feel since I had a bunch of fake Christmas trees left over from a wedding reception I'd done. I thought they might work well to help fill the stage.  Lamp posts in Central park along with the trees sounded cool but I knew with the limited budget I had I couldn't afford to rent them like I had for the wedding reception. Instead, I asked around to see if others might have something I could borrow. Nothing was available so I ended up making them.

THE MAIN BACKDROP (scrim): "DIY SCRIM"

See my post at: http://jillscreativeumbrella.blogspot.com/2013/11/for-stage-diy-scrim.html

THE BROADWAY SIGN:

See my post at: http://jillscreativeumbrella.blogspot.com/2013/11/for-stage-broadway-sign.html

NEW YORK SKYLINE:

See my post at: http://jillscreativeumbrella.blogspot.com/2013/11/for-stage-new-york-skyline.html

BACK LIGHTING THE SKYLINE:

I used cylindrical touch lamps for lighting behind the skyline - doubling as weights to help the skyline stay vertical. The touch lamps I used had low, medium, and high settings for brightness.  I used red, yellow and blue colored light bulbs in the lamps to create the look of the sun setting on New York.

Light placement from left to right went as follows: Red at high, Yellow at high, Red at medium, Yellow at medium, Blue at high - the blue being under the moon.

 

LAMP POSTS:

See my post at: http://jillscreativeumbrella.blogspot.com/2013_12_01_archive.html

THE MOON:

The moon was made by cutting a giant circle of cardboard then covering it with white paper. (see my post CARDBOARD CREATIONS - PERFECT CIRCLES - coming soon) I used a large roll of craft/butcher paper. The roll of paper wasn't wide enough so I had to use two pieces seamed together to cover the entire circle. I taped on the backside of the paper since I would not be painting this piece and didn't want the tape to be reflected in the light and seen by the audience. I simply wrapped the excess paper around the edge of the circle and taped it to the back. The detail features in the moon were simply drawn in with pencil leaving them subtle.  I tried to shine a black light directly on the moon from the stage wing, but I didn't have a very strong light so the effect ended up being lost.

THE REST OF THE STAGE - THE FILL:

Christmas trees - I used six, three on each side nestled with the lamp posts.  I used boxes and other things I had to stand the trees on to get the height variations. Then I hid the bases by covering them with black and green fabric that would blend into the set.

Park Bench - Borrowed. It was the perfect thing for this set. I am always grateful for those willing to share.

I am grateful for opportunities to use my creativity.

-Jill

For the Stage - Broadway Sign

CARDBOARD CREATIONS: THE BROADWAY SIGN

Finished size: 3'3" x 10'3"

The Broadway sign ended up being in the way of the lights when hung at the location shown in the photo below. It was relocated; hung in line with the scrim suspended above the skyline and opposite the moon. Looked great! (Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture after the sign had been moved.)

WHAT I DID:
This 3'3" x 10'3" piece of cardboard was made by taping three fairly good sized pieces of cardboard together with clear heavy duty packing tape. Duct tape sticks better, however, I didn't want the bulk of duct tape for this piece because I anticipated it being close to the audience and was concerned the tape might be seen in the reflection of the light. NOTE: When I painted the clear packing tape the moisture from the paint caused the tape to peel back a little. After the paint dried, I just carefully pressed it back down again and it seemed to work fine.

Front of Broadway sign painted.
Back not entirely painted
(Notice: left side curling,
right side straight - see tip below)

Back side of cardboard
now fully painted
(Notice: You don't have to
go to the very edge.)

TIPS:
-When painting on cardboard, you will need to paint BOTH sides to keep it from curling. (see "The Science Behind Curling Cardboard - The reason to paint both sides" at the end of this section of the post.)
-I most often use a brush when painting cardboard as a roller tends to get too wet and can deform the cardboard. 

Broadway sign with "lights"

The white circles were cut with a 2" circle punch out of regular printer/copier paper and attached using an adhesive strip roller.

Letters were penciled in using a straight edge where possible then painted freehand with small paintbrush. No need to erase errant pencil lines as they cannot be seen from a distance.

PROVIDING LIGHT WEIGHT STABILITY:
To provide stability to the lengthy cardboard sign while not adding a bunch of weight, I attached a PVC pipe (about 8 feet long) along the back from left to right strapping it down with duct tape. I did NOT use this for hanging, just for stability.

HANGING THE SIGN:

I used duct tape, staples and a key ring to create 3 fasteners to put on the back side of the sign. First, I tore a piece of duct tape about 4 inches long and folded it in 3rds lengthwise to create the strip you see the folded around the ring. (Duct tape is pretty tough stuff, especially when used in multiple layers.) Next, I folded the strip in half with the ring in it, held it in place on the back side of the sign and stapled it in place, stapling from both the front and the back to make it secure. The staples cannot be seen from a distance. Once stapled, I taped it on the back with a piece of duct tape as shown. I secured a fastener in each upper corner and one in the center for a total of three. I then used fishing line through the key rings in order to hang the sign. DONE!

CREATIVITY ABANDONED:  I thought it would be cool to create "light bulbs" and actually light up the sign. My thoughts went kind of like this: Use small baby food jars for the "light bulbs" by punching a hole to match the diameter of the jar opening through the cardboard in place of each white circle. The jar would then be inserted through the hole from front to back and the lid, with a hole punched through the center and a small white Christmas light inserted through the top, would then be screwed onto the jar from the backside of the cardboard, hopefully holding the jar in place. (not sure it would actually work since I didn't get to try it)  As I thought about all those jars it occurred to me that it might be necessary to reinforce the edges of the cardboard to handle the weight of the jars. My mind then went to building a 1" x 6" wood frame, drilling holes the size you would for a door knob or close to it to fit the jars, painting the frame black... This was where I had to put a halt to my thinking.  It was getting way to extensive for my short time frame and tiny budget, not to mention all the other problems the weight of the new design would create. So, I had to abandon my lighted sign idea and stick to white paper "light bulbs".

The Science Behind Curling Cardboard - The reason to paint both sides

...in case you wanted to know.

Two things:

Paper is made from wood and expands and contracts when exposed to moisture just like wood.

AND

Paint generally shrinks when it dries (at least the kind I use does).

The Explanation

When you paint a large portion of cardboard, that portion (the front) of cardboard shrinks when the paint dries. It also prevents the painted portion from being exposed to moisture in the air, allowing less expansion to take place. The unpainted portion of the cardboard (the back) remains the original size (not shrunken with paint), as well as remaining exposed to the moisture in the air allowing the cardboard to expand. This is why you may notice that a piece of cardboard painted only on one side might have more of a curl on a higher humidity day than on a drier day.

So, to keep the cardboard flat, you need to paint both sides, thus keeping both sides of the cardboard equal in size and equally exposed to humidity.  It's that simple.

-Jill